I was fortunate to have the opportunity arise to have a seat on a gracious friend's boat for this past BIG swell hitting the islands. This was the time the historic surf contest on Oahu The Eddie was supposed to go for the first time since 2009. It was a tough decision leaving Oahu my home and my friends for this, but I knew it was an opportunity of a lifetime and felt my imagery would be stronger for what I want as a photographer so I committed and booked my ticket!
Once landing in Maui early Wednesday morning I caught word the swell dropped and the contest was called off making me know 110% my decision was the correct one so now just to have fun! We went out and Wednesday was fun but the swell did not fill in yet so Jaws/Peahi was not showing her teeth yet. As the afternoon progressed some sets came through that made us wake up a bit. As the evening hit the ocean was pumping!!! On the boat ride back to the harbor right before the Sun was down the outer reef waves were breaking....meaning the ocean was pulsing SO much that when the swells were rolling through on the boat ride home literally the shoreline would disappear completely as the wave peaked on its way to shore! We almost got caught inside on the way back by one of these monsters and actually got airborne and played it much more safely after that.We woke up at 3:45 a.m. the next morning to catch Peahi waking up to first morning light which was a glorious experience! SO worth the energy and waking up early. The solitude and intimacy and experience of a wave this powerful all to your lonesome with some good people and the most perfect light and conditions was a photographers dream come true. Just a blessed experience I am forever grateful for. Follow your heart always meaning your gut...your intuition...your soul...it will never let YOU down.