Many off island may not know who Eddie Aikau is or what The Eddie surf contest is ALL about that was finally held today after seven years back in 2009. I am not Hawaiian but can explain how I see things a bit. First off here on the North Shore of Oahu Eddie was the first official lifeguard of the North Shore which says gobs about what an exceptional waterman he was and how he stood out to everyone being leaps and bounds above the rest. Without going too into his history....key points are he was a hero, an exceptional waterman which lead to becoming the best BIG wave rider in the world, and most importantly he was Hawaiian and lived selflessly and with aloha!
Today started off by waking up at 5:00 a.m. after only sleeping for about 4 hours prepping late all my camera gear and cleaning and making food and snacks and planning my day as best I could. A friend was nice enough to take my bike and myself down as far as he could because of the traffic at 5:00 a.m. on an island and unload me to start my journey with not having to exert lots for a long beach bike ride with ALL my gear which would have sucked. Note beach bikes at least mine are NOT efficient and peddling a block feels like a mile! lol Anyway...went to a amazing local spot where I knew I was welcomed and paid my dues sort to speak and earned the respect needed to go there on a day such as this being prime Hawaiian real estate. I asked humbly if it was an issue and Hawaiian said to me..."Automatic bruddah!". With that green light for me and such fun loving vibes from everyone. Note paying your dues and being real and truly respectful is universal on this planet and will never let YOU down.
I shot and woke up to the bay as we call her....meaning Miss Waimea Bay here on the North Shore where this break and beach can hold the largest waves on the island. She was roaring and as alive as I have ever seen her! The sets were as HUGE as the anticipation if The Eddie was a go meaning conditions were ideal enough to his standards to hold this content in his honor. 8:00 a.m. rolled around and it was announced....The Eddie was officially on!!!! A proud day for many Hawaiians today and honored to share that so intimately. Some may say this brings excessive traffic or crowds to the North Shore, but this unites the island and I saw friends and faces from every side today and that was awesome! It is such a small island when all said and done and many don't venture to other sides as much out of convenience, etc. and just feeling at home with your surroundings it's just the way it is here. Each side has so much beauty to it there is always something amazing to keep you there and from venturing off to another side. Anyway...just to see the island come together as one and enjoy Mother Ocean and her power. Life note....coming together as one is what this world is lacking along with love.
I was walking to the edge of this rock to take a pee...about to unzip my shorts and low and behold I see my old friend Ming who was the main reason I came to Hawaii literally in the first place! lol I haven't seen him in a long time meaning years and Eddie worked some magic to reunite us at least for this day and hopefully more to come so thank you and aloha for that! I laughed because I saw him right as I was about to pee and that was are first moment after a long time. Good to laugh and connect again! So people know Ming opened up his door and family to me and I stayed with him for two months roughly 7 or 8 years ago I think. We shot in the water with a housing experimenting for the first time pre Go Pro days and when there were not many shooting in waves TOTALLY clueless and getting our butts kicked. Ming inspired me to get to Hawaii and experience her beauty and play in Mother Ocean. So it was awesome to see him again being where I am now with my Mom here by my side and another example from that magical day.
Anyone who was there will never forget the raw energy and mana they felt that I can guarantee. I know I have never seen the ocean that alive and awake in my entire life and this was the biggest in 40 years literally so that's saying a lot coming from local Hawaiians. To see the North Shore this was was really cool and fun and new for everyone which was why SO special. Natural highs for EVERYONE which are the best highs. ALOHA